Message from The Mountain…

The boys and I have been working at The Elephant Nature Park, an hour and a half outside of Chiang Mai, Thailand.  And let me tell you…. elephant work is hard work!  We have learned so much about the struggles of the Asian Elephant and their fight against extinction. And we have met a woman named Lek Chailert, who has made us think differently about the elephant.

We have spent the last few weeks in the mountain jungles of Northern Thailand getting to know the Asian elephant.  In addition, the refuge also has nearly a hundred dogs, horses, an Asian Black Bear (that we hung out with and petted), water buffalo, and cats.

For those of you that don’t know, the number of Asian elephants in the wild, and also in captivity, is diminishing rapidly.  Experts believe it won’t be long before the Asian elephant is extinct.  Those elephants that are still alive and in captivity, go through a process called, “The Crush”.  This is a means of “breaking them in” by very cruel tactics such as beatings with hooks, chaining the animals so there are unable to move, and even blinding the animals.  Any of the elephant working with the general public, have gone through this process.  It is a horrific, brutal ritual.

What we have learned is that elephants are meant to live in the wild.  Unfortunately, the elephant has been put to work in circuses, the logging industry (using elephants for logging is now outlawed in Thailand, but still very much a reality in Burma and other areas), street entertainment and in elephant entertainment parks and treks.  To be able to do this work, they are abused horribly into submission.

But the elephants have a refuge in the Elephant Nature Park.  An extraordinary facility created by Lek.  Lek has been recognized internationally for her work with elephants.  I had the great honor of getting to know Lek personally…  An extraordinary woman who I am proud to call a friend.  She came from simple means but had such a deep desire to help elephants that she has created a paradise for elephants and observers alike.  Lek rescues elephants…. blind, broken hips, aged, babies who have lost their mothers, elephants who have been deemed too dangerous.   She takes them in.

I have never, ever seen a woman interact with animals like this lady.  It’s almost other-worldly.  The minute she arrives, the elephants come from everywhere to be in her presence.  The boys and I got to experience “lull-a-bye time”.  This is where Lek actually sings to the baby elephants… beautifully, I might add, and get this…. she sits underneath them and leans against their legs.  And if that wasn’t brilliant enough, she invited Jackson to join her.  There was my son, sitting with Lek underneath a baby elephant and it’s mother, stroking it’s leg and being part of something healing and holy.

I love that my kids have a new found appreciation for these animals.   Jackson really connected with a number of the elephants and they seemed to “get him” as well.  Jackson has a gentle spirit that the animals seem to identify with.  He spent time talking with them, feeding them, stroking their ears, necks and trunks.   Buck just thought is was super cool to put melons in their trunk and watch them eat them whole.    He also got to use a machette to cut the melons… (under supervision, of course).

Lek and her husband, were so gracious to the boys and I, making us feel like we were part of the project there.   We were able to work directly with the elephants… washing, walking, feeding, following the veterinarian as he administered care to the animals.

This sort of volunteer work is not for the weak of heart, or back, for that matter.  We shovel elephant poo, built fences, planted sugar cane, helped in the elephant kitchen making banana patties, scrubbing melons, using a machette to cut the fruit and filled baskets of food for the animals.  We even were able to participate in a “Save A Tree” program where we tied ribbons blessed by the monks in the area around trees.    We went to bed every night exhausted but so satisfied.

These majestic animals deserve our admiration and our protection.  We have learned that elephants are proud, protective, and very powerful creatures.  The kids and I will never spend a nickel again on circuses, elephant rides and anything related to the abuse of these incredible animals.

So, today is my birthday, and we are now in Phuket on the coast of Thailand… Tuesday we leave for India. We are going to see the Dalai Lama speak for 4 days in Dharamsala.  Very exciting.

Thanks for all the Birthday wishes!   Of course, more to follow…

One Night In Bangkok And The World’s Your Oyster…

Is it possible we are in Thailand? Yes, I suppose it is! Our trip is going so fast. The boys and I keep looking at each other and saying things like, “Wow! We’re in Moscow!”, “Can you believe we are in Beijing?”, “Dad, we’re actually in Hong Kong”, and now, “Holy cow, we’re in Bangkok’!

Thailand is beautiful. We arrived last week into Bangkok. The aunt and uncle of one of Buck’s best friends in Charlotte, picked us up at the airport. We were wisked off, straight away, to a small town called Sattihip (pronounced Sat-a-heap).

It’s a cool, funky beach town with a Thai Naval base, about two hours south of Bangkok. Luckily we stayed with Uncle Awoot, who was a 3-Star Officer, so we were able to enjoy the perks of the Naval base. We ate great seafood whilst enjoying the breeze and ocean view, the boys sailed to an island off the coast, we played and argued with monkeys, had a few motorcycle rides, and swam in the ocean.

 

But then back to our focus…. We arrived at The Special Education Center, a day school and live-in orphanage for kids with Down Syndrome and Autism.

We were falling in love all over again. One little girl, Ice, stole my heart. She reminded me of my dear friend, Cher Ferreyra. She and I just “got” each other.  

Buck buddied up with Fat, a rambunctious boy with an infectious smile, and Jackson spent some quality time with Thai, an adorable little girl who seemed to have a crush on him.  All of these kids have severe challenges but have an incredible sense of joy.   It really warms my heart to know that this place actually exists. The principal and director of the school is a saint.  She is so great with the kids and has dedicated her life to this work.

We only had less than a week at this location, so our duties were to play basketball, jump on trampolines, hold babies and hug on the kids. Tough life, eh? These kids took no time with jumping in and making us feel welcome. The joy of volunteering is that there is no “get familiar time”. Everywhere we have visited, within a two-minute period, we have felt like family. The Love Revolution is alive and well, and currently in Thailand!

The countryside of Sattahip is breathtaking… the crystal blue ocean, tropical mountains, and the wonderful, friendly natives. The Wats (the temples) are a sight to see and we even got to hang out with some monks at one of the Wats. And, well the food, exquisite! The cuisine is my favorite so far.

From Sattahip, we arrived in Bangkok for a few days. We had a little time to see some street markets, The Grand Palace (really impressive) and unfortunately nurse a cold. Arghh….

We are now on the plane heading to Chiang Mai, where we will work with the elephants at a Reserve. We are very excited about the prospects… we just have to watch our toes…

More to follow….

So Long To Hong Kong…

Tomorrow morning we will fly to Bangkok on the next leg of our year-long tour. It’s an emotional farewell.  We have had such an amazing experience both in China and here in Hong Kong.  It’s been a life-transforming time.  So many lessons learned.  So many moments spent connecting with remarkable, brave kids who move us to want to do more.  We are wishing the kids here from New Hope successful operations and recoveries.  And to all the doctors and staff of MedArt, our heartfelt gratitude and admiration.  You guys are so inspiring. There are saints here in China who are doing amazing things.  It has renewed my faith in mankind!

There is so much we can all do to make a difference.  You don’t have to travel around the world to do it either.  I’m learning. Believe me, I’m a novice.  If you are moved to make a difference, start it now.  Go to a soup kitchen, a hospital, a prison, a hospice, a crisis center or crisis hotline.  Just do it.   What I’m discovering is that it’s in the giving.  The rewards are off the charts.  You will give yourself the greatest gift ever…

Okay, I’ll get off the soap box. But when you have seen what we have seen in the last two months,  you become aware  that we all have a responsibility to do more, help more, save more…  We are so lucky to have so much and a little goes a long way, especially over here.

We have met so many amazing people here in Hong Kong.  We had the chance to check out Kowloon, the light show over the skyline of Hong Kong, Soho, and Happy Valley.  Hong Kong is a happening city… alot of great energy.  And thanks to our host, Jack, for letting us crash at your awesome house on Hong Kong Island.   We owe you big time!

So as the sun sets on Victoria Harbor this Tuesday evening, with mixed emotions, we pack our bags.

And with anticipation for what lies ahead, we look forward to the adventures unfolding in Thailand.   Up, up, and away!   More to follow…

 

 

As We Leave The People’s Republic of China…

We are heading out of Hong Kong shortly, preparing to work with the elephants in Chiang Mai, Thailand.   But before we leave, I feel compelled to reflect on this incredible month in China.  I am so grateful for the experience of a lifetime.  China – the people, the cities, the architecture, the food, the temples, the squares, the markets… soon it will all be a videotaped and photographed memory.  It’s hard to let go of a “real-time” adventure like China.  A journey of emotion, sight, temperature, touch, and sound. One can’t really translate the visceral into the written page.  It is to be experienced with one’s whole being.

Our first taste of Beijing… pulling in on the Trans-Siberian Railway… and disembarking into a hot, chaotic, and remarkably intimidating train station.  I remember fearfully thinking, “How are we ever going to find our driver and what am I going to do if he’s not here?  How are we every going find the orphanage?”   Well, as fate would have it, he was there as planned and we were sped away into the hazy fog of Beijing and then off into the Chinese countryside.

The kids and I will never forget the experience of The New Hope Foundation.  The kindness of Dr. Joyce, Robin, and Katie Hill, Dr. Steve and his family, Shannon Wu (our pal who helped us with everything!), the crew of Mama’s (the caregivers), and most importantly, the beautiful children of this orphanage.

We will wholeheartedly miss our new family at New Hope… and have vowed to keep up with the progress of these children.  I know we will return to this place, so it’s not “good-bye” but simply,  “Until we return…”. I hope that I am able to shed a little light on their work through this website and through my efforts when I get back to the states.

We were afforded the experience of true saints in action…  People who have dedicated their lives to save the un-save-able.   These kids were either rescued from the street, left in hospitals or taken from other orphanage that could not help them.  This is the real deal.  It’s not a reality show.. this is real life.  When you are in the midst of work like this, your life changes forever.  It’s subtle too, because no one is walking around saying, “Look at me, I’m doing noble things.”  They are just doing what they are led to do.

These kids are so happy too.  And rightly so.  They receive tons of love, three meals a day, a playground, swimming pool, loving nannies who care for them and the chance of medical attention to help them walk, see, breathe, use the bathroom, and live. My thoughts and prayers, with a sense of helplessness, go out to the less fortunate that don’t make their way to New Hope or the likes.

I am so thankful for Dr. Joyce and Robin Hill.   Not only for their self-less work, but because they took the time to show a Yankee and his two kids Beijing and The Great Wall.  Robin took the boys and I Go-Carting, which is another highlight for the boys…  (and secretly, for me as well).  And damn, those carts are fast. Their youngest daughter, Katie, was our pal and interpreter.  Thank you, Katie, for your incredible enthusiasm, great energy and ability to speak a bunch of languages.  You are, without a doubt, the undeniable Go Kart champ!

Another shout out goes to Shannon Wu.  Can’t even express how grateful we are.  Seems like every time the boys and I were confused or couldn’t communicate, or didn’t know how to get somewhere, or how to make a train reservation, or didn’t know what to eat….. we would turn around and there would be Shannon to save the day.   What’s so admirable about California-born Shannon, is that she is in China volunteering with these kids.  She has the gift of speaking Chinese as well, so she can communicate and love these kids and help the non-speakers as well.  She’s here in Hong Kong, where we are currently, caring for a baby from New Hope that is having an operation.

There are so many memories we take with us from New Hope… teaching pre-school with these kids as they shouted out their ABCS, to playing in the ball pit with my pal, Ray-Ray and the others, to playing in the playground outside, to swimming in the pool with them, to watching Dr. Steve put on casts and doing procedures on club feet…  to eating chicken hearts in the village, to watching Buck eat a Donkey Burger.. for real… to the sight of Jackson on a bicycle pedaling through this tiny Chinese village smiling to the old people on the side of the road… To staying in a Yurt…    You can’t buy these memories…. they are lived…. (and I’m actually crying typing this).  I’m so thankful for this experience, you have no idea.  I’m not sure how I got so lucky… but so thankful.

At the end of our stay at New Hope, we were able to check out Beijing… The Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, and 798 Arts District. The adventure was a bit soothing to the soul considering we were dealing with separation anxiety from the orphanage.  Walking through history is to put it mildly.   You can feel it all around you.   Beijing is historic but also alive… and thriving.  The art scene is very cool as well.  Had the chance to hang at Yuanfen New Media Art Space with owner David Ben Kay.  A cool man who has created this awesome art space for all kinds of art.  A real visionary.  I’m hopefully going to teach a workshop there in Beijing in 2012.  Check out his interview:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMZ5kYnF2-w    They are doing great things there.

From Beijing, we headed to Shanghai for a few days and hung with a incredible man who’s making a difference in the world. Robert Oliver.   His cookbook, Me’ a Kai won the Best Cookbook in the world in 2010 by Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris. What’s unique about his approach is that it’s not just about food, it’s about teaching different cities and countries about sustainable tourism and teaching people to use the local produce of their region to help boast the economy of that particular area.  He is currently in Shanghai as a consultant in this arena.

 

We only had a few days layover so we saw The Bund, The TV Tower with the glass bottom floor, The French Concession, and People’s Park.  The beauty of People’s Park.  They play music on loud speakers and people are dancing… couples dancing in the park… and other’s sing opera.  It’s a culture that is not self-conscious.. They love getting up and dancing and singing.  Really fun to watch.

From Shanghai we have flown to Hong Kong, which is where we are now.  We have been visiting the babies who are here from New Hope who are getting their operations.  We are hanging with Shannon because she is down here watching one of the babies.  The hospital is beautiful, modern and fairly new.  These kids are so lucky to be getting surgeries from the doctors of MedArt, a group of incredible doctors who dedicate their time and energy to help these kids in need.  They are all musician who raise money doing concerts during the year to afford these orphans free medical attention and very expensive surgeries.

Hong Kong is an interesting city… very international. After Russia and mainland China,  it’s a bit of a cultural break… as most people speak English, there are more western style food options, and there are stores that carry America products.  The skyline is beautiful.   It’s like China meets NYC.  Lots of shopping…. thank god we can’t partake, since we can’t haul any more than we already have.  We are taking the ferry to Kowloon across the river today to check things out.  Still hot…  when does Fall happen?  🙂

More to follow…. from Bangkok… Wow!  Bangkok….  “One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster..” And Twelve in Twelve continues.  Stay tuned.