We arrive at a crowded, blazing hot train platform in Moscow around 9pm. Our Mission: The Trans-Siberian Railway to Beijing, China. We are being seen off by our Russian friends, Elena and Vikie. The unwashed train pulls in sluggishly to a stop at Platform #4. From the looks of this tired Little Engine That Could, I assess that we are in deep trouble. A crew of Chinese train personnel disembark and line up at the carriage entrances, not actually looking like a commercial for the Beijing Olympics. They are a daunting bunch, none of them looking particularly happy, or able or willing to speak English. I plaster on my big Hollywood smile and American charm to absolutely no avail.
They take our tickets and we climb aboard. Down a long, dimly lit hallway, we finally arrive at compartment Number 5. We have berth 17, 18, and 19. There is room for one more in our compartment for four, berth Number 20. Please God, no! As we slide the door open, I know we are in for an adventure. The cramped space with two upper beds and two lower beds might as well have flames shooting out of it. My first attempt at opening the window fails miserably. I mutter, “Oh, Shit…” under my breathe, so as not to have the kids hear… not the “S” word, they’ve heard that plenty of times before, but the fact that I might be perceived as being negative from the “get-go” on the longest train trip in the world, that we are about to embark on. A small fan attached to the wall above the window is on and blowing a scorching breeze through the cabin. “Oh, a fan… cool!” A little part of me dies inside.
I go out into the hallway to see it there might be a tad more oxygen there and I come across the cabin attendant. I mutter, in a hopeless attempt, “Air conditioning?” He just smiles and shakes his head no. “American?” he asks. “Yes”, I smile, hoping that might be interesting to him. He just chuckles and turns around and walks off.
My boys, Jackson, 14 and Buck, 8, seem to be more available to the adventure than I, so I attempt “rally mode” and suck it up to the best of my ability. With sweat dripping down my face and our “way too much luggage” safely stored under our beds, we wave good-bye to our friends on the platform from the carriage entrance. With a cross between a war-time wave to soldiers off to war and the look of “they’re goners” on their faces, Elena and Vikie fade into the distance. As I return to our berth, I’m emotional for some reason, maybe fearfull, over-heated or perhaps just exhaustion. For better or for worse, we’re off. I find some comfort in the fact that no one has claimed the 4th bed in our compartment, at least not here at Moscow Station.
I lay on the bottom bunk in the blistering heat, knowing damn well that there is no way I’m going to be able to handle this for 6 night and 7 days. I begin plotting our exodus, perhaps in Omsk, where we were originally planning to visit a baby orphanage before some confusing Russian bureaucracy stood in the way. In complete abandon, I fall into a bit of a zen state or heat coma, I’m not sure which. Enthusiastically, Jackson says, “Let’s try and open the window” and my faint and hopeless response with ultimate despair, “ They don’t open”. “Sure they do…” and he hits a latch on the window and down it goes. “Thank you, Lord Jesus”, literally comes out of my mouth.
We have departed promptly at 9:51pm and now waddling down the tracks at 10:30pm, we leave the lights of Moscow behind us. With the excitement of a first train ride, the boys jump from top bunk to top bunk, looking out the window, wanting a snack, where’s the bathroom, pass me my iPod… while I try hard to lay quietly in the bottom berth, breathing deeply, trying to figure out how to best explain to the boys that our journey would abort within 24 hours somewhere in the middle of Siberia.
Having had a full day of activities in Moscow, around midnight we settled into our smaller than twin-size, hung from the wall, harder than concrete, sleeping berths. When I say harder than concrete… there is no exaggeration. My hips are literally aching. This is also confirmed the next morning, by two English lesbians a few cars down who are both complaining of the same issue. Thank god it was not just me and the on-set of old age. With our compartment door double locked, the boys in their beds, and the fan and window doing what it can do to blow what feels like napalm on us, we drift off to a “fit-ish” sleep.
Much to my surprise, like Christmas in July, I awake in the middle of the night to actually need the sheet and blanket crumpled at the foot of my bed. Buck gets up to ask for help with his as well. Yes, there is a god! The elements are giving us a reprieve.
I lay in my concrete cot, a bit chilly, gazing out the window as anonymous towns as they pass us by. The train’s haunting echoes go from being annoyingly head splitting, to surprisingly soothing. They seem to whisper … “I think I can, I think I can….”. I fall back into a chekovian slumber.
As if we’ve fallen from the sky in a shack on a bad witch, my boys and I awake to a Technicolor paradise. Morning offers up a stunning array of Russian country-sides, so much so, that my two American kids even noticed. “Look, Dad, isn’t it cool.” “Yeah” replies the other. “Cool” doesn’t do it justice. Lush landscapes with an occasional unpainted wooden house with faded green and blue painted shutters. In the yard of these homes is the occasional women tending to her garden in what I can only describe as “Babooshka” skirt, sweater and scarf. It seems staged for our benefit. I marvel at the fact that these people actually live here in the countryside, tending a garden in the middle of Russia. The simplicity of their lives is so massively appealing. And, we are only one night and one early morning out of Moscow.
As with real live fairy tales, some harsh realities must rear their uglies… and this story is no exception. With the need to pee, comes the realization that we are not in OZ at all, but on a long distance out-dated commuter train from Moscow to Beijing. I enter the tyanet (toilet). Yikes. Water (I think) on the floor, a beyond unpleasant stench, and a toilet that looks well used, to say the least. I stand on the moist floor hoping beyond hope that the water does not reach my feet in flip-flops as I pee. Wait, it gets better… There is a pedal to flush the toilet on the floor. I gently take my open toed foot and depress the lever to experience something that still has me amazed. The flush opens up the toilet straight onto the tracks. Yes, below me I actually see the tracks… My mind is reeling. I’m peeing right on the Russian railroad tracks… for real. Wow. What about shitting? Holy shit. Are Russian’s pissed off when they walk the tracks? Do they not walk the tracks in Russia? Then I begin thinking, “Is that how it is in America??” All those years, as a kids, flattening coins on the tracks by my house… was I wading in urine and shit. No, it can’t be. It’s America, right? Each time I use the bathroom on this sojourn, my mind wanders between the Russian locals and my youth.
Returning to our compartment after a mind-blowing rest room experience, I spy that the natives are restless. “What’s for breakfast?”
We take out the groceries that we have bought the night before at a Moscow Super Market. Well, not really a Super Market. More like a confusing local grocery mart where we haven’t a clue what we are buying. Is it butter or some sort of cheese? Is it water with or without gas? Are those cookies or dog biscuits? We are clueless Americans.
So this morning, we dig into a loaf of bread, some cheese spread (which we thought was margarine), and some sort of empanadas with mystery meat in them. I have to be honest, the empanadas (forgive me for not knowing the Russian name) are not a big hit. American kids and adults like to identify their meat before ingesting it. Between the three of us we could not get a positive ID on it. Maybe lamb, beef, camel, dog… who knows. I’m assuming that the six other meat pies that we bought, because they were convenient and we thought would keep, will go into the trash. I feel weird offering them to the Italians staying in our neighboring berth.
So the lazy days of train riding go by… Gazing out the window, reading, drawing, playing words games, arguing, chiding, dealing with a cough, constipation and only one major melt-down.. But the joy factor is off the carts. My kids and I are really spending time together… we have no choice. And guess what? It’s really fun. My teen can’t call his girlfriend or get on Facebook, my little one can’t sneak off to play with the kids next door or zone out on Power Rangers, and I can’t return emails or chat with LuAnne or Kristina for hours on end. So, with nowhere to hide, we have the pleasure of getting to know each other better. I don’t want to sugar coat it. It’s not Mayberry. My older son still pulls an attitude when asked to write in his journal, my younger one is bored more times than not, and I have the hourly mood swing, but beside that we are definitely groovin’.
The greatest part is the mutual appreciation of the whole experience. Even though we were warned about the dangers of the long train ride across the tundra: the thieves, the boredom, the dirty bathrooms, no air conditioning, and no one speaking English, we are having a great time. The scenic aspect is off the chart. I was under the impression that Siberia was a vast wasteland of endless dry fields and an occasional ice station. That is so not the case. It is lush and green this time of year, with so many different types of landscapes. The swaying fields of green, gold and lavender, to small townships of rugged homes painted in blues and greens, to major industrial cities on rivers, to hills and rugged mountains. I said to Jackson today that parts of it remind me of what “The Old West” must have looked like.
And then of course the people we have met on the train…. Well, I’ll start with the run in on the café car. The two people working in the café car are characters. Brilliant story… went in the first day for a coffee and an apple juice with Buck (Jack decided to take a nap) and the bill came, it was 250 Rubles. The next day I go in, this time with Jackson, and order the same exact thing. This time the bill comes at it’s 360 Rubles. I ask the waitress why… She says something in Russian, I reply, “That’s not working for me” and give her the international charades symbol for let me see the menu. I show her the price in the menu and, get this, (wouldn’t even have believed if I saw it in a movie), she takes the sheet out of the menu, crosses the price off and say they no longer have it at that price. We have a multi-lingual argument and eventually I just laugh and give her 300 Rubles for having the balls of a bull and we go back to our cement cots, having done the dance.
With that being the only shady dealings, we have met some great people. First our steward, a Chinese man who speaks no English, after “smiling him into submission” took a liking to the kids and me. Now he let’s us charge our iPods and computer in his private cabin with an electrical outlet. We are feeling a tad spoiled.
The Italians next door are super cool and the girl next door on the other side is from Mongolia. She has fallen for Buck and spends a lot of time doting on him. And there’s the Dutch family… the father has just turned 50, so he is taking his wife and kids on a camping trip to Ulan Bator, Mongolia. Didn’t know there was camping there but apparently it’s very popular and you stay in Yerts. The 15 year-old daughter seems to have eyes for Jackson. He’s playing it cool though, see, he’s got a girl state-side waiting for him.
Then there’s the girl from Dublin, who’s in her late 20’s who’s traveling by herself from Dublin to Beijing then Thailand and on to New Zealand. There’s the very handsome Parisian aristocrat, Justin mid-thirties, who tells us his take on their President and Carla Bruni. It’s like an international smorgasbord. How thankful am I that English seems to be the international language. Phew!
The train is comforting to me. I feel safe… protected. Twice or three times a day, we stop at a train station where vendors sell their wares… from those mystery meat pies (can’t recommend them), to ice cream, juices, water, yak yak (my kid’s new favorite dessert), and even sweaters and shoes. It’s an adventure… not scary even with the language barrier. I don’t care what anyone says, it’s all good. And the ace in my back pocket, I’ve learned the secret…a smile goes a long way. I guess it’s a universal thing.
We have now left Russia and Siberia behind us, and have crossed over into Mongolia. We successfully made it through the passport check and border patrol. How is it that as a grown man, the minute an immigration officer boards the train to check your papers, you feel like a helpless 6 year-old. I guess that in the back of my mind, for reasons unknown, they can yank me off by your feet, never to be seen again. That, by the way, was not our experience.
In the belly of Mongolia now, we are experiencing the Gobi Desert. Can you believe it? The Lewis boys are smack dab in the middle of the freakin’ Gobi desert! As the heat begins to return to our cabin, we spy a family of camels in the distance in this barren, arid land of rolling hills. Camels, holy cow!
I’m assuming when we arrive in Beijing mid-day tomorrow, our cabin will be piping hot, like it was when we began this journey 6 days ago in Moscow. Seems only fair…. We survived it, we didn’t abort half way, we’re richer for having done the dance, and thankful for the experience.
Check Russia off the list…. Time is moving so quickly as our slow train to China approaches The Great Wall….
Peace, from the Love Revolution. jd, jackson and buck
We leave tonight on the Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow to Beijing. Holy cow! The kids and I finally came to the conclusion that we should do it. It’s like extreme sports, I guess. It is the longest railway on the planet. We will be on the train for a full 6 nights, God willin’ and the creek don’t rise. Yikes! Then we will arrive in Beijing on August 1st, and then on to our next project. Foundation of Hope will meet us at the station at 2pm. This is an orphanage for kid with physical challenges. Should be amazing. The kids and I are really looking forward to it!
Buck and Jack on Red Square – Moscow, Russia
Moscow has been amazing. We have had the great pleasure of spending time with Elena Korenova, a very well-known and successful actress here in Russia. I worked with this unbelievably talented woman in Los Angeles many years ago. She is such an interesting woman, and so much fun to be around with all of her great stories, and just her remarkable take on life. Elena, you are the best! She came to our rescue here, showing us Moscow and taking us to amazing meals all over town. The highlight was going to eat at the Writer’s Restaurant. It was something out of a “period film”. Stunningly beautiful and filled with the history of Russia writing and acting. We met a number of well-known Russian actors there. Was a real treat. Also, a big thanks to Elena’s friend, Vikie Chilap for her help as well. She is also a talented actress with a huge future ahead of her. She helped us buy our train tickets, which would have been basically impossible without her. Bravo, Vikie!
Besides that, we have been doing the sight-seeing thing. Hanging out at Red Square (The Kremlin, Lenin Mausoleum, Gum, and St. Basil’s Cathedral), saw the headquarters of The KGB, along with Arbat Street, and The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. Many beautiful things to see. Also the Metro (the underground) is a sight in itself. Very clean, very efficient.
Since there will be no internet on the slow train to China… we’ll post in a week or so, when we arrive in Beijing. Wow! Arriving in China. Craziness… Thanks again for all your emails, posts, contributions, and encouragement. The boys and I send you all our love.
Jack and Buck in front of The Kremlin
We are truly having a once in a life time experience. Shooting tons of video, which I apparently will have plenty of time to edit into something on a very loooong train ride starting tonight. We are learning so much… The boy’s favorite thing of all, of course, is hanging out with all the kids. The language barrier doesn’t seem to be a big issue. Kids are kids… and kids just want to have fun!
We continue to meet so many extraordinary people. It’s been quite an adventure so far.
1. The mullet is alive and well and featured on the heads of many Russian men (and a few women).
2. Most Russian women wear high heels… even when walking on century-old cobble stone streets. And they do it flawlessly, I might add. I think the trick is to concentrate on walking on the balls of your feet and don’t let the heel part hit the ground….but I could be wrong.
3. Central air conditioning has not been discovered on this side of the planet. And ice is scarce as well. I think it might be an over-reaction to their very long, brutally cold winters.
4. History is everywhere you look… the architecture, the monuments, the statues, the museums. They take great pride in preserving history and they have been around for way longer than the states. Way longer…
5. Communism truly meant communal. Up until about 20 years ago, most families had a room on a floor of an apartment building with shared bathrooms and kitchens…. a lot of people here still live like that, where three to five families share living space. It’s like living in a dorm way after college. Arghh…
6. The mosquito is alive and well and thriving in Russia. (And so are Britney Spears and Lady GaGa.)
7. You get about 28 Rubles to the dollar. Rent is expensive but other things like food are fairly reasonable. We haven’t found the 99 Rubles store yet though.
8. Of all the places we could have found to stay in Moscow, how is it possible that we found a place right across the street from The Moscow Arts Theater and the home of Stanislavski. There are no mistakes in the universe! (And a 1/2 block away from the only Starbuck’s I’ve ever seen in all of Russia… truly no mistakes in the universe!)
9. I miss our dogs… and they would love it here. Dogs are not required to have leashes and they are super well trained. I may have to ship Woody and Jessie to Moscow Dog Camp. Just a side note… dogs bark in the same language worldwide. They’ve worked it out.
10. The Metro rocks! Getting around is easy and the trains are spotless here in Russia. Of course, it’s summer and it is a little bit like riding in an Easy Bake Oven, but convenient.
11. Did I mention that no one speaks English? But then I put it into prospective. If I were in K-Mart in the states, how many people would I find that spoke Russian.
12. St. Basil’s Cathedral on Red Square is just awesome… No other words to describe it. And it’s right next to Gum… the most rockin’ mall with an Apple Store, Dyson’s High Tech Fan and Vacuum store, Levi store, and more!
It seems nearly impossible that we have been in St. Petersburg for 10 days. It went by so fast. We have had an extraordinary time working with Transit. I’m so grateful to the amazing staff. A special thanks to Olga Tumashevich for being the best interpreter a guy could ask for. The hardest part is saying good-bye to all the kids here who have welcomed us into their world.
Dani
I’m going to especially miss Igor and Dani (pictured to the left)… 6 and 7 year-old brothers who have really touched my heart. Their mother wasn’t able to care for them, so she brought them to Transit. She visits once a week, while she gets her life together. They both came to me the first day and jumped on my lap and greeted the boys and I with such enthusiasm every morning. You guys, the stories of these kids are amazing. Another of my favorite kids was Rova. He is a gypsy. He tells me gypsies are very clever and buy colorful clothes and their lives have many possibilities. Love that!!! Another amazing story… a girl who was sent to St. Petersburg at 17 from Nigeria to work the streets and send home money. Her passport was stolen and she was living here with no papers and nowhere to live. Transit is helping her to get back to Nigeria and hopefully start a better life. I was able to get her brother on the phone in Nigeria today. She looked at me with such thanks in her eyes. It really touched me.
Our Friends From Transit
They took the kids camping last week, two hours outside of St. Petersburg. They slept in tents by a lake. But the tents were in really bad condition with holes in them and the kids were eaten alive by mosquitoes. One of my goals is to help them create a camp for the kids. I’m committed to get Transit, two 4-man tents and one 2- Man tent and some sleeping bags. They can be used…. just functional without holes. If anyone feels moved to help with the tents, let me know and we can work out the logistics. These people are working so hard for these kids and making next to nothing, salary-wise. It’s truly a labor of love. If you could meet the staff here, it would blow your mind. They treat these kids with such respect and kindness. Apparently, that is not the norm in a lot of the group homes here.
The Mariinsky Theatre
Tonight after Transit, we were invited to the Opera at the Mariinsky Theatre. Everything you could imagine in a Russia theatre… beautifully ornate and oozing with theatre history. And tomorrow, before we take the 1am train to Moscow, we are going to see St. Isaac’s Cathedral, The Hermitage Museum and The Church of The Savior on Spilled Blood, three big sites here in this beautiful city.
Only the first stop on the Love Revolution and already I’m feeling like it’s a miracle trip. To all that are supporting this effort, you are rockstars. We couldn’t be doing this without you. Spread the word to friends and family. The more support the better. Tomorrow I have a phone interview with Parade Magazine. Very exciting.
More to follow… From Russia with love. jd and the boys.
The Eagle has indeed landed! We have arrived in St. Petersburg, Russia. We are staying at a hostel. The experience, though a bit rough, is making me feel like a kid again. Bunk beds and communal living… perfect for the whole Russian experience. The kids are loving it. The people here were very guarded when we first checked in but now the staff and boarders are like a second family. Have met so many cool people… Photographers, artists, travelers, some young girls in their 20’s who came from Belzarus to St. Petersburg to see Jared Leto’s band, “60 Seconds to Mars” and an array of other interesting characters. Another cool thing… it’s White Nights in St. Petersburg… so it gets dark about 1 am and gets light around 4 am. Very cool!
But the dream come true is our work here. We are thrilled to be working at Transit, a remarkable organization. It is an orphanage that takes in homeless kids who have run away to the big city, and helps to place them in homes. As you can probably imagine, it took about ten minutes for the kids and I to fall in love with each and everyone of them. Daniel, my big pal, came up to me immediately and grabbed my hand (and my heart) and hasn’t let go. He and his twin, Igor, are two amazing 7 year olds. The thought of heading to our next city and saying good bye to these guys is excruciating.
Each child has a story and has been through so much, but the beauty is that they all have incredible spirits and have so much fun at Transit. We have been doing gymnastics, playing ping pong, watching videos, playing games. On Monday, I’m going to teach an acting class with the kids, doing improv and theater games. I think they are excited about it.
The staff has been wonderful. These kids at Transit are so lucky to have these genuinely kind people in their lives, who are truly concerned for them and treat them with love and respect. All of you out there, hug a kid today, and give them some love and encouragement. And let them know that they are valuable and important. I’m giving the hugs out here in St. Pete…
And again, to all of you who have supported our project, my gratitude is immeasurable. More to follow…
Finally… The amazing dream realized! The boys and I are off and running. We left Charlotte, NC, this morning with perhaps a few too many bags. We have arrived in New York City, safe and sound and will spend the weekend here. Very exciting. We are staying with my dear friend, Bob Kanter, an Emmy Award winning documentary film producer. This evening we had a slice of authentic NY pizza and I have promised the boys a visit to the Natural History Museum tomorrow. We are going to see if we can volunteer at a shelter down the street from us on Saturday. Sunday we are headed to Berlin and then St. Petersburg, Russia. It’s truly happening and we are on our way! To all of you who have supported this project, my sons and I are beyond grateful. Your hard work and encouragement has made this “once in a lifetime” journey possible. Thank you all from the bottom of my heart! More to report shortly… after I get some sleep… Packing up your entire life, making arrangement to leave a place for a year, and then flying with two kids can take it out of ya! Night.
A week away! It’s truly amazing to me that in 7 days, the boys and I will be heading out on the adventure of a lifetime, jumping into the void of the great unknown. It’s unsettling at best, but the possibilities of discovery are endless. I know that my sons and I will come back different people… that much is a given. Here’s a little inside information: I have been really emotional and crying alot, not just because I’m a tad scared and sad to leave my life and people I love behind, but because I feel like something remarkable, extraordinary, and profound is about to take place and at times my feelings are overwhelming.
We fly out of JFK and have a layover in Berlin, where Jackson will celebrate his 14th birthday. He wants to go to the Berlin Wall, or at least check out what is still left of The Wall. He’s going to do a video blog on the subject, which I think will be really cool.
Then we are off to St. Petersburg, Russia for our first volunteer job. We will be working with “Transit”. It’s an organization that helps homeless teens transition from being on the street to being placed in foster care. We are really looking forward to helping there.
We are so grateful to all the people who have made this journey possible. I want to thank a few by name: Robert Shapiro, Ed Smith, Bo Henderson, Ed Springs, Liz Branca, Lisa MacLeish, LuAnne Bernier, Scott Pacitti, Kristina Haddad, Esther Benjamin, Rachel Woodhouse, Valerie Bobo, Sue Sanford, Jennifer Taylor, Michael Lightweaver, Peter Cipkowski, Bert Woodard, Jay Everette, Scott Galiher, Les Satinover, Lindsey Moser, Linda Britt, Patti Price and to every single actor at The Actor’s Lab – Charlotte, who has encouraged me every week to plow through it. I love you all.
Okay, Jack and Buck, time to start packing… Let’s begin The Lewis and Lewis and Lewis Expedition!
We’ll keep you all posted.
You may say I’m a dreamer, but I’m not the only one…. jd
It has been a tough couple of weeks. The boys and I moved from our three-bedroom house in Plaza Midwood to a one-room efficiency apartment with no air conditioning. That in itself was quite an adjustment. We wanted to get everything in storage and get used to living in small quarters… But then all hell broke loose.
My aunt and uncle who raised me my entire life both passed away 2 weeks apart. And in between that, I was diagnosed with a carcinoma on my lip and had to have two surgeries. …one to remove a lymph node in my neck (which came back negative, thank God) and another to cut out the cancer on my lip. The good news… all is well and it’s all taken care of even though currently I look like Angelina Jolie. It has felt like a spiritual battle… as if the dark forces were trying to get in the way of us going out and making a difference in the world.
Isn’t it interesting how things end up working out? I had mentioned to my sister six months ago how I was concerned about leaving my elderly aunt and uncle behind while we did this trip. Now they have both passed on. It’s like they moved on to pave the way for what we are about to do. Though the loss is great, I feel that it’s part of a master plan. And as far as the lip… The doctor said that I was incredibly lucky to have caught it before I left for a year abroad. Truly, I am the luckiest man alive.
Enough squawking. Back to preparing for the great journey!
So now we are slowly getting back on track. We have a little more than 3 weeks left until we ship out. It has crept up on us quickly. We are getting used to living in small quarters, though I do have to admit, it’s a bit cramped and hot. By the way, the neighbors at our new place have been incredibly kind and baked us cookies and have been so welcoming.
Our visas are almost all in order, we have most of our immunizations done and we are preparing for the home stretch. If you have ever taken a trip, you know that it seems like you are never going to get everything done before you leave. Well, it REALLY feels that way to me. Leaving for a year, there is so much to get in order.
But I have made the To-Do list and I have been checking things off each day…. And come July 1st, we will be on our merry way.
We are still raising funds and will continue to do so as the trip progresses. If our mission resonates with you, please donate here on the website. Until the next blog… Coming soon. jd
We will be posting a video blog this week as well.
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Each child has a story and has been through so much, but the beauty is that they all have incredible spirits and have so much fun at Transit. We have been doing gymnastics, playing ping pong, watching videos, playing games. On Monday, I’m going to teach an acting class with the kids, doing improv and theater games. I think they are excited about it.
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